The short answer
To measure for a bespoke gown, use a soft tape, wear fitted underwear and ask a helper. Measure bust, underbust, waist, high hip, full hip, shoulder, arm, and lengths from shoulder to floor in the shoes you plan to wear. Keep the tape level and snug, not tight, and measure twice.
What do you need before you start?
A soft tailor's tape in centimetres, a mirror, a helper, and the undergarments and heel height you plan to wear with the gown. Tie a thin ribbon around your natural waist as a reference line. Clothing professionals measure from defined body landmarks; the international standard ISO 8559-1 {{cite:iso8559}} describes these so that measurements are consistent between people and places.
Which measurements does a gown need?
| Measurement | How to take it |
|---|---|
| Bust | Around the fullest part, tape level across the back |
| Underbust | Directly under the bust, snug |
| Waist | At the natural waist, the narrowest point |
| High hip | About 10 cm below the waist |
| Full hip | Around the fullest part of the hips and seat |
| Shoulder width | From shoulder point to shoulder point across the back |
| Arm length | Shoulder point to wrist bone, arm slightly bent |
| Upper arm | Around the fullest part |
| Hollow to floor | Base of the throat to the floor, in your shoes |
The list provides a guide for how to take anthropometric measurements
How tight should the tape be?
Snug but relaxed: you should be able to slide one finger under it. Breathe normally and do not hold your breath or pull in your stomach. For each circumference, check in the mirror that the tape is level all the way round; a tape that dips at the back is the most common cause of errors.
Why do lengths depend on your shoes?
Because a floor-length gown is cut for a specific heel. A 3 cm difference changes how the hem sits and whether you trip on it. Wear the shoes, or shoes of the same height, when measuring lengths, and bring them to every fitting.
Should you measure more than once?
Yes. Take each measurement twice and record both. If they differ by more than a centimetre, measure a third time. Note the date, because bodies change, especially over the months before a wedding. Measurements taken at home are a starting point; the toile fitting is where the pattern is proven. Read what a toile fitting is.
Are dress sizes useful at all?
Only as a rough guide. Standard sizes vary by brand and country, and a bespoke pattern is drafted from your own numbers. The ISO standard notes its measurements serve as a guide to create size and shape profiles for garments {{cite:iso8559}}; bespoke goes one step further and creates a profile of one. If you are planning remotely, see our video consultation guide.
Which mistakes are most common?
Measuring over clothes, holding the breath, letting the tape slip down at the back, measuring lengths barefoot, and rounding numbers. Another is measuring once and assuming the numbers stay fixed for months. Note every measurement exactly, and remeasure four to six weeks before the toile fitting.
Why does posture matter when you measure?
Stand naturally with feet together and shoulders relaxed, looking straight ahead. Pulling the shoulders back changes the back width and bust, and slouching shortens front lengths. Measure at the same time of day each time, as the body changes slightly between morning and evening.
Frequently asked questions
Can I measure myself without help?
Some measurements, yes, but back and length measurements are far more accurate with a helper.
Should I measure in centimetres or inches?
Centimetres are more precise, but either is fine if you say which you used.
What if I lose or gain weight before the wedding?
Tell your designer. Bespoke gowns are refitted at each fitting and include seam allowances for small changes.
How often should I remeasure before my wedding?
At the start, again before the toile fitting, and whenever your weight changes noticeably. Each fitting also confirms the measurements on the gown itself.
Do I need to measure my head for a veil?
Usually not, but measure the distance from the crown to where you want the veil to end, in your wedding shoes.